Garden to Table: January Edition
I keep reading posts from gardeners that are itching for spring (looking at you, Abi). It seems like they’re chewing their fingernails off, anxiously ordering their 2025 seed wish-lists, polishing their tools, and generally unable to hold their horses. But it’s winter, people! The skies are sitting low on our Tennessee hills like three-week-old mashed potatoes and the meadow grasses next to my driveway are slumped with snow. What’s the rush to get going? This whole scene somehow reminds me of the girls on Broadway with wearing miniskirts in January: What on earth are you thinking?! (Ok, I may have paraded similarly in my own day.) But these days, I’m off to find my beanie and sweatpants! I’ll see you all in a few weeks, suckas!
As I wrote in a blog last fall, winter has become my time of rest. I spent the holidays at the beach, and when I returned to Nashville just in time for our beautiful winter storm, I entered what I’ve deemed “the great hunker-down.” I’m outside for just a quick shot of Vitamin D each day, but I’ve gotten a little obsessed with several AppleTV series; I keep trying to beat my sleep score on my Oura ring, and I’ve left my house as little as possible. Thankfully, I’ve got a stockpile of grains, chicken broth, freezer meat and dried beans, and although my garden is looking pretty bare, I’ve got greens! When the winter temps have dropped and I don’t have the umph for frost-cloth, I’m so grateful for the self-sufficient and resilient buffet of winter greens.
Some Science on Winter Greens
Kale standing tall under the snow in the Thomas garden. Nolensville, Tennessee
It’s so cool to think: kale, collards, mustard and chard are like, designed for cold weather! These robust greens can withstand frost and even subfreezing temperatures, bouncing back with renewed vigor and an even better taste than their summer counterparts. This is because cold temperatures slow plant metabolism and reduce the production of bitter compounds. Meanwhile, sugar concentrations increase, acting as a natural antifreeze. This transformation explains why winter-grown kale and other greens are often preferred for salads, sautés, and soups.
Garden-to-Table Recipes for January
In line with my desire for slow days in the winter, I do love a long afternoon in my kitchen, and my favorite winter recipes reflect that. I have the patience to chop onions, garlic and ginger to add to Allison Roman’s chickpea + tumeric + greens soup that famously earned the name, “The Stew” several years ago. My Dad is still raving about it after I made a huge pot for them over the holidays.
Keepin’ It Simple
If you don’t have time for chopping and dicing, I recommend sautéed kale, which is ready in minutes, and can be transformed into a fancy grain bowl by combining leftovers like rice, quinoa, whatever protein, and a dressing like smashed avocado or a tahini sauce like this one. This combination has carried me down I-65 many afternoons when I need to be on project sites.
New Year, New Collards Greens Recipe
The last recipe I’ll post today is focused on collard greens. Now, one of my health-whiz clients has gotten me hooked on collards: they are high in all kinds of vitamins and minerals, and I’ve been trying to eat more of them. But I must confess, I don’t like the taste of southern style collard greens. (Please don’t tell my mother! I’ve choked down so many bites to appease her on New Years Day!) Instead, I’ve gotten hooked on this unique coconut-braised collard green recipe from NYT cooking. It’s a five star winner!
A Caveat: Understanding Oxalates
I didn’t include a salad or recipe for raw greens here. And while I do eat kale massaged with salt and olive oil from time to time, it’s not my go-to. Greens are a nutritional powerhouse, but they do come with a caveat: oxalates. These naturally occurring compounds can bind with minerals like calcium and inhibit absorption, particularly when consumed in large quantities. However, this doesn’t mean you have to shy away from greens. Cooking methods such as steaming, blanching, or sautéing significantly reduce oxalate levels, making your greens not only delicious but also more digestible. As I learn about oxalates, I am reminded of the need for seasonal eating. I won’t be buying bags of kale and collards in May. When it’s warmer, I’ll be eagerly eating lettuces, arugula, and even tender dandelion leaves and chickweed. I think our bodies might appreciate the temporality of the garden. We don’t overdo it with one plant, but switch to the next garden goodie.
I’m grateful that there are leafy green survivalists in the winter garden. They don’t require my attention when the days are too cold. They allow me to be deep in my winter state, yet still enjoy some fresh flavor and nourishment during my beanie-clad “hunker down.”
