Garlic
allium sativum
A Basic Growing Guide
Description
A long time ago, I received a garlic crusher for a wedding present and along with it, came a little stainless steel block shaped like a bar of soap. The tag claimed to remove the scent of garlic from your fingers after rubbing wet hands over the surface. Would you believe it? It actually worked! Garlic is an allium (like onions) and alliums contain sulfur compounds that are released once the cells of the plant are broken (e.g. crushed, minced, chopped). When you try the stainless steal and water trick, the sulfur compounds bind themselves to the stainless steel, removing the scent from your hands.
Allicin is the sulfur compound that gives garlic its trademark flavor and smell. It is also the compound responsible for garlic’s reputation as a medicinal and culinary wonder that dates back to before the Great Pyramids. It’s been used across time and across the globe as an antifungal, anticarcinogen, antiviral, antidepressant, and antivampire (ha!).
Garlic is unforgettable…except when you are growing it. You almost have to forget about it because it is one of the longest-growing edible plants, clocking in at 8-10 months before ready for harvest. This is longer than carrots which can take 90 days, artichokes which can take 120 days, and big pumpkins which can take close to 150 days. On a positive note, since garlic stores so well, you can enjoy your harvest for 6-12 months (depending on variety) while your next harvest is developing underground. So, let’s get that cycle started!
Some Common Varieties
Softneck garlic- Known for its soft, pliable stems, this variety is great for braiding and stores longer than hardneck varieties, usually 9-12 months. We like Nookta Rose and Inchelium Red.
Hardneck or stiffneck garlic- This variety forms a hard central stem and produces scapes (flower stalks), which are edible. Their flavor is spicy and more complex than softneck garlic, but since they don’t store as long, they are not often found in grocery stores, which makes growing them yourself an excellent choice! They have fewer, but larger cloves and make the best roasted garlic. We like Chesnok Red and Music.
Elephant garlic- Technically a type of leek, this variety produces giant, mild-flavored bulbs.
Garlic Through The Season
Planting Instructions
Light Requirements
Garlic needs full sun, requiring at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
When
Plant garlic in the Fall when the weather starts to cool down, but before the ground freezes. Usually between October and November.
Seed or Transplant?
Garlic is grown from individual cloves (not seeds). Separate the cloves from the bulb, keeping the outer papery layer intact, and plant them directly in the soil.
Depth
Plant each clove 3 inches deep (4 inches for larger cloves) with the pointed end facing up. Layer 3-4 inches of straw or leaf mulch on top to help keep garlic at a consistent temperature throughout the winter.
Spacing
Space cloves 4-6 inches apart in rows that are 12-18 inches apart. Also, considering that garlic is in the ground 8-10 months, plant it where it will not interfere with other plants you will want to enjoy in spring. Some people interplant it with lettuce, others like to have a separate in-ground garlic plot, others who have enough space like to keep them in the raised beds where they will enjoy well draining soil.
Growth Habit
Garlic grows upright, with slender, green stalks that can reach 12-18 inches tall. Hardneck varieties will also produce curly scapes in the spring about 1-2 months after the first leaves appear. They are stems and have a small bulge near the top where the flower is forming. Scapes are delicious to cook with and are considered a delicacy in many kitchens. Our mild Tennessee winters allow us to grow both hardneck and softneck varieties.
Tending
Watering
Water garlic regularly, especially during dry spells, to keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy. Cut back on watering once the tops begin to yellow and die back, about two weeks before harvesting. If it is raining regularly, especially over winter, there is no reason to water your garlic.
Common Pests and Treatments
Onion Thrips: Tiny, pale insects that feed on the leaves, causing silvery streaks on the leaves. Insecticidal soaps or Neem oil can be used.
Wire Worms: Beetle larvae that make tiny holes in the bulb, noticed only after harvesting. Unfortunately, the bulb will rot after harvesting. If this happens, turn the soil where you grew the garlic a few times during the month between harvesting in early summer and planting a new crop in fall.
Common Diseases and How to Treat
Bulb rot or White Rot- White mold growing around the garlic bulb. Yellow and stunted growth. Remove and destroy infected plants, and avoid planting garlic in the same spot for several years.
Feeding/Fertilizing
During planting, you can apply bone meal to the soil to give the roots a strong start. After the first leaves appear in early spring, apply a balanced organic fertilizer every 3-4 weeks, such as GardenTone.
Pruning
Only necessary for hardneck varieties. The garlic scape will grow and eventually form a flower that will go to seed if you let it. You will want to cut off the scape before it flowers, so that the plant’s energy is spent on developing the bulb instead of spent on flowering. This is a great pruning task because you actually get to eat the scapes! They can be eaten raw or cooked until they are sweet like roasted garlic.
Harvesting
When
The leaves will start turning yellow as you get close to early summer. Harvest hardneck garlic when the lower third of the leaves have turned brown. For softneck varieties, harvest when the two bottom leaves are brown. Many gardeners will try a sample harvest mid-May to June. Pull one and check to see if the individual cloves are well-defined. If the bulb is smooth and even, the garlic is not ready yet. Check the next bulb in another week or two. Once you can see the definition in the individual cloves, they are ready to harvest!
How
Loosen the soil around the bulbs with a garden fork or your fingers, then gently lift the garlic out of the ground by the base of the plant. Be careful not to bruise the bulbs.
Then What?
After harvesting, cure the garlic by hanging the plants (or laying them on racks) in a cool, dry place with good airflow for 2-3 weeks. If hanging, keep the groups small with no more than 6-10 bulbs. Once cured, trim the tops to a 1-inch stem, clip off the roots, and store the bulbs in a cool, dry place for several months in mesh or netted bags. For softneck varieties, you have the option of braiding the garlic after curing.
Check out the Birdsong Oregon blog for tips on using a dehydrator and glass jars to help your hardneck garlic last longer. I will be trying this next year!
Garlic Recipes
Simple recipes for hardneck varieties Roasted Garlic, Grilled Garlic Scapes, and Garlic Scape Pesto