Cabbage

brassica oleracea var. capitata

A Basic Growing Guide

Description

There is nothing like a row of voluminous cabbage plants. They make the garden look bountiful and tidy at the same time. It’s no wonder they are used ornamentally in formal garden settings. It is easy to mistakenly think of cabbage as being in the lettuce family, because cabbage is often used in salads, and we are eating its leaves. But it is actually part of the brassica family! That means it’s related to brussels sprouts, broccoli, and kale. Cabbage was selectively bred by people to have a larger and larger center bud. Earlier versions were looser and it is from many generations of breeding that we come to the lovely dense center buds we have today.

Those dense layers of crunchy leaves are packed with vitamin C, fiber, and antioxidants. They can become so dense that some heads of cabbage can weigh over 20 pounds! Now, that’s probably a little much for most people’s raised garden beds, but luckily, there are many smaller varieties available.

Some Common Varieties

  • Green Cabbage – Classic round heads with crisp, mild leaves. We love planting the Farao variety for its reasonable 3 lb heads and relatively few days to maturity.

  • Red Cabbage (or Purple Cabbage) – Vibrant purple-red heads with a slightly peppery taste. These tend to have higher nutrient counts than their green counterparts. Their purple color comes from an antioxidant called anthocyanin which reportedly has many health benefits.

  • Savoy Cabbage – Crinkled, tender leaves with a mild, buttery flavor.

  • Napa Cabbage (or Chinese Cabbage) – Elongated heads with tender, slightly sweet leaves. Great for stir-fries and kimchi!

Cabbage Through The Season

Planting Instructions

Light Requirements

  • Cabbage needs full sun, requiring at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day for proper head formation.

When

  • In Middle Tennessee we plant cabbage in early spring (March-April) for a summer harvest or in late summer (August-September) for a fall harvest.

Seed or Transplant?

  • Start seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before transplanting or plant directly in the garden. Transplants establish quickly and give a head start against pests.

Depth

  • Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep or transplant seedlings at the same depth they were grown.

Spacing

  • Space plants 12-24 inches apart, depending on the variety. Larger heads need more room!

Growth Habit

  • Cabbage forms a dense, round (or oval) head with broad, overlapping leaves. Heads sit low to the ground with sturdy stems.

Tending

Watering

  • Keep soil evenly moist, providing about 1.5 inches of water per week. Avoid overhead watering to prevent disease.

Common Pests and Treatments

  • Cabbage Loopers and Cabbage Worms– Cabbage Loopers are green caterpillars that come from cabbage moths. They don’t have middle legs and move like inch worms. Cabbage Worms are small, velvety green worms that come from small, white cabbage butterflies. Both pests chew on leaves and can damage cabbage heads. They tend to eat the leaves first and then move to the heads. Don’t go too many days without addressing the problem, but also don’t give up if the outer leaves have many holes eaten through- there is often plenty of surface area left for photosynthesis to work. Use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) or hand-pick them or use row covers.

Common Diseases and How to Treat

  • Black Rot – Yellow, V-shaped lesions on leaves. Prevent with good air circulation and avoid watering from above.

  • Downy Mildew – Pale yellow patches on leaves. Use organic copper fungicides if needed.

Feeding/Fertilizing

  • Feed with an organic nitrogen-rich fertilizer (like fish emulsion or compost tea) every 2-3 weeks until heads start forming. Then, switch to a balanced fertilizer like GardenTone.

Pruning

  • Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves to improve airflow and prevent disease.

Harvesting

When

  • Harvest when the heads feel firm and dense, typically 65-90 days after planting, depending on variety. If left too long, cabbage heads may split—harvest before this happens! It’s better to harvest too early than too late.

How

  • Use a sharp knife to cut the head at the base, leaving a few outer leaves to protect it. For continuous harvest, leave the stem in place—smaller heads may regrow! But if you need the space for your warm and hot season plants, go ahead and cut to the soil level or remove the plant entirely.

Then What?

  • Store fresh cabbage in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. To extend shelf life, store whole heads in a cool, humid place (like a root cellar) for up to 3 months. Cabbage is great for fermenting into sauerkraut—a delicious way to preserve it!

Cabbage Recipes

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Spinach